Palace In Ruins

An old caretaker in his 80’s greeted me at the huge fortified palace gates of Pragh Mahal Bhuj the capital town of Kutch district.His attitude appeared bright and cordial similar to his bright indigo coloured uniform.The city was ravaged during the earthquake of 2001 which left the area in shambles.The small princely town draws me habitually to the courtyards of the palace which is in the catastrophic state. The ruins with massive sandstones scattered around create a great location to the viewfinder.

Maharao Pragmalji the King was inclined to architecture and his aspirations lead him to build his abode in an elaborate fashion designed by Colonel Henry Saint Wilkins.The palace is built in Italian-Gothic style, this massive structure in front of me is the prominent place of the town visited by adventurous travellers. The Corinthian pillars and carvings with flora and fauna designs in the jaali work interpret the laborious work done by the artisans of the past era without the privilege of latest tools. Broken chandeliers and sculptures embellish the once elaborated with decorative details in the Durbar Hall.The protruding sandstones on the walls and the large chunks of stones lying on the ground bear evidence to the lost Chavda dynasty which once stretched over the whole district.

With the Independence movement accompanied with a chain of other unfortunate incidents led to the doom of this palace within a very short span of time.Now it dwells eminently in the ballads and their kutchi folklore sung by legends and folk artists regarding the palace and the love stories which formerly buzzed in life within the walled forts.

Photographers who get captivated by the desolate structure with parrots and pigeons nesting within the wooden ceilings manipulate the spooky environment to capture impacting pictures.The scale through the dark winding stairs is scary and it takes you to three royal colossal bells which had centuries of authoritative significance towards the people co-ordinating to it’s time.The building, aged around 150 yrs has a ruling heir living in another country summer palace known as Vijay Villas.

The entire landscape is discomforting by a cloud of gloom and a chilling desolation, once the final rays of sunlight bids adieu there is an ambience of our movements being watched with the air of dizzying heaviness.I could partake in the fated grandeur with a touch of desperation that echoes within the premises.A legend of erstwhile magnificence now lay insignificant.

 This post is from my “Travel Folklore covering Kutch Adventure” clicked on 20/1/2012-2013
The old town  narrow alley full of antique,handicraft and silverware  shops leads me to the ruined palace.
 The Care Taker

 The entrance to the ruined palace





















The administration building of the palace

The Chavda dynasty’s Flag
The Palace also houses a crystal gallery,while it also showcases  royal artifacts and the world’s rare antique private collection of teak wood carved furniture,silver coins,vessels including ivory artifacts.
The kings of those period were inclined towards hunting.These are the claws of Lion and Tiger.
                                                     The stuffed Lion
                                        One of the mode of conveyance
                                                    The grinding Stone
                                                 The Queen’s Palanquin
                                                    The Jewel box
                                                           Aaina Mahal
                                  Sandstone intricate Jaali-work
                                                            Polo Sticks
                                                Mini Jewelry Box

 Corridor to the Bell Tower

The passage to the 150m bell tower is narrow and spiral,the whole bhuj and the adjoining villages are visible from the tower.
Inside the spiral narrow stairways
The Queens and the Princess were never allowed to mingle around in open public,the system of head and face covering prevailed.
The Royals of the old spent their evenings by entertaining themselves through classical dances and folklores,the queen and the princes enjoyed it from the the above Jaliwork windows and cupolas.
 The clock tower
 One of the ravaged sections
I am resting at the foot stairs of Aaina Mahal. Admission to the Aaiana Mahal was denied due to the monument being extremely dangerous,now the palace is being beautifully restored at a slow pace.
One of the existing well
 Riches to dust,why do all good things come to an end?
The sun is setting down as we move towards the towards the exit
I am exiting this giant door to this glorious past.Are you looking for some adventure experience in Bhuj? You can have some astonishing memories in life with a visit to this ruined palace.

Travel Tips:

  • Bhuj is around 335 km from Ahmedabad. It’s well connected with rest of India by road, rail and air.Luxury buses are available.
  • GSRTC buses connect Bhuj to other places of Gujarat.
  • Bhuj is 16 hours journey from Mumbai by train and 8 hours from Ahmedabad.
  • Bhuj has an airport with regular flights connecting to major cities of India.
  • Best time to visit Kutch is December to March, during Rann Utsav which is organised every year.
  • Climate: The temperature falls as low as 14 degrees at night during the winters.The temperature during summer reaches as high as 50 degree Celsius.



  • Bhuj and its neighbouring villages have cottage industries owning a good collection of hand embroidered clothings.
  • The place is famous for it’s Bhandej(Tie and Dye) work.Fine bhandej is expensive while the bigger bhandej can be bought at a cheaper price.
  • This town is famous for its block prints and ajrakh work.
  • The mirror and the coin work on bedspreads quilts and dresses have been handed down from centuries.
  • Silver jewellery and the ethnic collection from various tribes of kutch is available in the narrow alleys of the town.
  • Pure handmade leather goods are easily available with significant patterns.
  •  Please do take care while buying hand embroidered materials as the demand exceeds the production, so machine embroidered materials are replacing the original craft in some areas.Check the back side of the material to know its worth.


One Reply to “Palace In Ruins”

  1. Welcome, just read a great article on how to set up the guest book / instructions manual for your holiday home. Really good read, take a look ( Looking forward to going back next year to Marina de Bolnuevo. Thanks.

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